Pulling up at Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs, it’s immediately clear that this is not the typical posh Napa Valley spa. A teal blue 1952 Buick Special is parked at the curb and a vintage neon sign glows outside the mid-century modern-inspired property. Think motel vibes meets sunny modern fun. The retro touches harken back to the property’s origin as Calistoga’s first wellness resort, opened in 1952 by pioneering wellness practitioner John “Doc” Wilkinson and his wife, Edy. Doc was a chiropractor and believed that mud baths and mineral waters were natural extensions of his massage and chiropractic therapies.

This isn’t five-star luxury (we lug our own bags up the stairs to our rooms) but everyone here is so friendly and I’m impressed by how every detail embodies the spirit of wellness. The fruit-infused spa water at check in is a great first impression, and my friend and I each pick out an essential oil for the aromatherapy diffusers in our room. I select a calming lavender blend to help me drift to sleep.

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